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These are the damaged parts, removed
from the wreck. In addition to missing sections of plastic, internal mounting tabs are broken at most attachment points. Broken tabs are reattached using long strands of fiberglass, as shown in my "How to repair broken fairing or side panel pins". |
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Inside surfaces must be sanded with 120
grit sandpaper, to remove paint and provide a good grip
for epoxy resin/glue. I’ve used a pair of Vise Grips to hold correct alignment at the headlight flange. |
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Between the headlights, this support bar
is broken in two. With the headlamp flange clamped, this part can be glued, and reinforced. All repairs must be made using epoxy glues and resins. Polyester resin (fiberglass resin) has poor holding characteristics and shrinks pretty dramatically as it cures. This shrinkage will pull your part out of shape. |
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These are the fiberglass materials used
for the repair. On the left is 1" fiberglass tape, useful for rebuilding flanges or straight edges. In the tray is ¾ ounce fiberglass cloth. This lightweight cloth is easy to mold, and wets out well with epoxy glues and resins. On the right is 24 ounce cloth. I use this for heavy backing. Additionally, I pull long strands and cut them into pieces for reinforcing crack repairs. NOTE: Never use "woven roving mat" with epoxy resins. The mat contains a binder (to keep it stiff before working) that only dissolves in polyester resin. |